GUARDS ON THE BIDASOA
THE RIVER BIDASOA, LENS OF A FRONTIER
The Cuerpo de Guardia on the river Bidasoa reveals the frontier side of Irun. And our beloved river marks the beginning of this fascinating journey, on a path that runs through our city.
The origin of this building dates back to the year 1841, when General Baldomero Espartero, the Spanish regent, decreed the permanent transfer of internal customs posts to the coast and the border. In Irun in the mid-19th century, after the first customs posts – located in the Plaza San Juan and the Calle San Marcial – a Carabineer post was built on the banks of the river Bidasoa, the Cuerpo de Guardia, which we have in front of us.
Julián de Angulo – an infantry major and a captain of engineers – designed the original building in 1850; its most prominent feature was a neoclassical façade. This was built in sandstone from the Eskela quarry in Jaizkibel, the same stone as was used a century before in the construction of Irun town hall. After being rebuilt and extended in 1952, then suffering damp problems in the semi-underground floor which led to its abandonment, the building was fully restored in 2016, turning it into a meeting place for the old people of Behobia..
THE FIRST BEHOBIA BRIDGE
THE RIVER BIDASOA, A LANDSCAPE THAT UNITES
The bridge at Behobia shows the cosmopolitan side of Irun. Our beloved river marks the point of cohesion between countries, cultures and people, a cohesion that has shaped the personality of our town.
In the various interpretations of the derivation of the name “Behobia” (lower ford from the Basque Beko-ibia, mare’s ford from Behor-ibia and so on), ford, or ibi in Basque, always seems to be present. The ford at Behobia was the natural point at which to cross the border.
The first bridge in Behobia was built during the early part of the French Revolutionary Wars (1793-1795). A wooden footbridge, destroyed in 1808, was replaced by another during the Napoleonic Wars, which lasted until 1813. The latter was replaced a decade later by a new bridge. In the middle of the 19th century a fine wooden bridge was built, paid for by the two countries it connected, resting on stone piles and pillars which can still be seen at low tide. This bridge served for people and goods to cross until 1971, when the current bridge was opened seventy metres upstream.
ISLA DE LOS FAISANES
THE RIVER BIDASOA, A HORIZON OF PEACE
Isla de los Faisanes (which means Pheasant Island) shows the peaceful, unifying side of Irun. Our beloved river surrounds this symbolic piece of land, rising like a hill in the middle of the water.
It is the smallest condominium territory in the world, whose administration alternates between Spain and France every 6 months. On 7th November 1659 the Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed there. By signing this the Spanish and French crowns – represented by Luis Méndez de Haro and Cardinal Mazarin – ended the conflict between them, a consequence of the Thirty Years War.
This treaty involved redrawing the map of Europe and agreeing the marriage between Louis XIV, the “Sun King” of France and Maria Theresa of Austria, the daughter of Philip IV of Spain. The famous painter Diego Velázquez designed the decoration of the Spanish pavilion. French painter Carles Le Brun portrayed the sumptuous ceremony in a series of famous tapestries.
Despite its name, no pheasants have ever lived on the Isla de los Faisanes. One of the theories about the name is that it comes from the faisants, peasants who drained the reed beds to cultivate the river banks.
FORMER BARRACKS OF OSINBIRIBIL
THE RIVER BIDASOA, A PROTECTED PLACE
The former Carabineers’ barracks of Osinbiribil shows us how Irun was protected. The course of our beloved river is filled with history, which has made the city what it is today.
The corps of Carabineers was an armed force set up in 1829 to guard coasts and frontiers and stop tax fraud and smuggling. The old Casa de Santiago belonged to this corps. During the Second Carlist War (1872-1876), the building was occupied and fortified in order to control the crossing of the Bidasoa, threatened by Carlist attacks.
After the war the site was returned to the Carabineers, who had their barracks in this part of Osinbiribil until September 1936, when it was burnt in fighting during the Spanish Civil War.
With the passing of the years, all that remains are the ruins of this former fort, with a long history behind it. With a rectangular floor plan and six metres in height, now roofless, its layout can still be seen, though it is in a poor state. One can imagine a magnificent period building on two floors, probably with a large interior patio. Opposite is the island of Hirukanale which, together with Galera and Santiagoaurre, make up the Islands of the Bidasoa.
MARITIME SANTIAGO
THE RIVER BIDASOA, A VIEW OF OIASSO
The Santiago neighbourhood reveals the Roman and seafaring side of Irun. Our beloved river makes it way to the Mar Externum, so closely tied up with the history of Oiasso, today Irun.
Until the late 19th century, this area was surrounded by water channels. There was a wide estuary and port facilities, close to the parish church of El Juncal. These docks moved, successive stretches of the Santiago canal were filled in and houses built on both sides. This formed what is now the Calle Santiago, where one can appreciate the maritime style of the houses closest to the back of the church.
In 1992, thanks to work carried out in the area to dig a drain, a group of archaeologists unearthed large quantities of remains of immense historical value. The highlight was a Roman dock, the second found in the world after that of London (Londinium).
The discovery of the Roman port of Oiasso – founded between the years 70 and 120 – put Irun on the map as a civitas of the Vascones. A seafaring town, on a spot which was already a frontier at that time, where boats were built and fish were caught with different kinds of nets and hooks. Many of its remains can be seen today in the Oiasso museum.
THE HISTORY OF THE GAL FAMILY
THE RIVER BIDASOA, FOCUS OF EFFORT
Stories like that of the Gal family in sport show us the tenacious side of Irun. On its course through the city, our beloved river tells us stories of dreams pursued and achieved.
The historic Gal stadium, inaugurated in 1926 with a game between Real Unión and FC Barcelona, was built with a donation by Salvador Echeandía Gal. Salvador was the son of Genaro Echeandía (former mayor of Irun) and Luisa Gal (an enterprising woman, ahead of her time), who ran a hardware business and a customs agency, while ensuring the best possible education for their twelve children.
Salvador Echeandía Gal, a highly talented person of an innovative nature, founded, among other businesses, the Perfumería Gal (then national leader in its sector). He also built a factory for this business in Irun, named Lore Bat, as well as setting up together with other partners the firm Porcelanas del Bidasoa.
His example is the triumph of education, culture and tenacity, in sport as in business, the values that made the place where we are. As well as football, an important part has always been played by other sports, like cycling – the stadium had a cycling circuit, opened in 1950, which hosted top stars – and canoeing.
THE WATERS OF THE BIDASOA
THE RIVER BIDASOA, A STREAM OF POSSIBILITIES
Historic trading reveals the river Bidasoa as a fount of resources for Irun. The abundant flow of our beloved river has been a key means of transport throughout our history.
Down the centuries, craft of many kinds have sailed the waters of the Bidasoa. The barges known as gabarras and their lighter cousins the alas were the most numerous and important in river transport of gravel and sand from the river bed, minerals, country produce and so on. There were also craft known with names like chalantas, ugaricas, lanchas and botes which were essential to move goods and people, as well as for fishing.
This activity was vital to our ancestors’ survival. A report dated 1785 lists numerous species present in the waters of the Bidasoa: from the prized salmon to sea bass, plaice, trout and bleak.
Until the international bridges were built, people crossed to France by boat. This is why there were many jetties in Irun. The most important of these – where travellers came and went – were located in Behobia, behind the church, and in the place where we are now.
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